Our Research and Publications
Setting the Beta for climbing physiotherapy and rehabilitation
Strength and Conditioning Considerations for Speed Climbing
Strength and Conditioning Journal 2022
Climbing has developed into a professional sport with worldwide participation. Olympic climbing consists of lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. The objective of speed climbing is to reach the top of the route in the fastest time. Speed climbing has not been subjected to the same level of investigation as other types of climbing. A strength and power base underpins performance in speed climbing. This physiological and mechanical basis provides the foundations for effective program design for the speed climber. Effective programming should incorporate a long-term planning approach that is based on a needs analysis of the sport and the climber's physical qualities. The development of high performance will involve the sequential application of regional hypertrophy, maximal strength, explosive strength training, plyometrics, and climbing-specific training to a varying degree.
Climbing Rehabilitation Chapter - In Climbing Medicine
The aim of sports injury rehabilitation is to restore an individual’s athletic function and performance to preinjury levels and to minimise the risk of reinjury. To effectively manage this process, clinicians require a comprehensive knowledge of the generic and specific injuries that climbers may sustain, an understanding of the principles of rehabilitation and an ability to adapt management plans specifically to the needs of the individual. Rehabilitation and physical preparation necessitate the development of systems thinking utilising evidence from published literature, the clinicians experience and shared decision-making with the patient. The central tenet of rehabilitation is the optimal application of mechanical load to stimulate electrochemical activity at cellular level, termed mechanotransduction.
Acute Hamstring Injuries in Climbers - Current Rehabilitation Concepts
Journal of Wilderness and Environmental Medicine
Acute hamstring injuries are often caused by the heel hook technique. This technique is unique to climbing and causes injury to muscular and inert tissues of the posterior thigh. The heel hook is used by climbers during strenuous ascent on overhanging walls and when crossing difficult terrain. The technique reduces the amount of upper body strength required during strenuous climbing because the climber's center of mass is retained within the base of support. The heel hook is stressful collectively for the hamstring muscle group and musculotendinous junction. Depending on injury severity, both conservative and surgical methods exist for the management of hamstring injuries.
High Performance Rehabilitation of the Climbing Athlete -
The Shoulder Theory and Practice Text Book
This chapter presents a comprehensive fusion of the current research knowledge and clinical expertise that will be essential for any clinician from any discipline who is involved with the assessment, management and rehabilitation of the climber with a shoulder injury
Injury Prevention Chapter -In Climbing Medicine
The cause of injury is often multifactorial and rarely the preserve of one independent factor. Injury prevention in sport should therefore be governed by logical principles that provide the athlete, healthcare professional and coaching team with direction. In the sport of climbing, athletes need to be physically prepared to fully meet the demands imposed upon them.
Athletic development and physical preparation strategies are a cornerstone of climbing performance and injury prevention. The ability of musculoskeletal tissues to adapt its material, morphological and physiological properties provide a performance advantage. Although there is a paucity of empirical research evidence in climbing populations, the use of injury surveillance, work load monitoring protocols, and physical preparation strategies may facilitate better future injury prevention planning.