Improving your climbing grade does not happen by chance. Training is required to improve your bodies physiology. This change in physiology to a degree can be achieved by climbing alone. However, as your grade increases you have to make a commitment to non climbing based physical training.
The 80/20 rule is a good rule of thumb. This means 80% of your training week should be devoted to climbing and 20% to strength and conditioning.
Although, many climbers won't agree with me on this one and would prefer to just climb. The facts are clear! Climbing on its own will only get you so far in terms of performance. Strength and conditioning which is programmed will help you achieve your climbing goals faster. It will allow focused time to work on your weaknesses that climbing can not because of the variability in routes and setting.
It is also a Mecca for injury prevention because with the right approach it can help to create optimal muscle balance and neuromuscular efficiency. Climbing on it's own will lead to muscle imbalance because of the repetitive nature of the sport.
So climbing harder, faster and longer is not about climbing more. Smart climbers see the value in strength and conditioning programmes as a compliment to their climbing and invest in non climbing based training.
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